Craigslist Saab 900 SE
I've been checking with a fluke multimeter on the battery terminals, it sits around 13.5 if the alternator is producing B+, sits down around 12.5 and quickly drains to <12.0 when it seems to be running solely on battery. (Have a 4 amp charger on battery between runs). I'm going to take another look at the alternator lugs, probably get back under the car tomorrow. I have ordered both an alternator assembly pull, as well as a new voltage regulator, should hopefully have a working charging system between them all once they arrive.
Yesterday, spent a few hours working on the car. Drained coolant and pulled off the old radiator hoses, replaced with new ones. Disassembled throttle body from intake manifold, removed fuel rail and injectors, removed dip stick tube, detached intake manifold. Removed alternator endcap and voltage regulator assembly. VR brushes were >10mm, e.g.: not worn out, however internal contacts were oxidized heavily. Cleaned with wire brush, alcohol, and dremel tool. Cleaned more of the exterior to the cylinder head and valve color in preparation for pulling the cover and replacing its gasket.
As things stand, I'm waiting for an order with a new intake gasket to show up before I put it all back together. In the meantime, I'll probably just do more cleaning as well as inspecting the valve train, timing chain, and cams. Took some pics, nothing exciting. More pictures soon.
As things stand, I'm waiting for an order with a new intake gasket to show up before I put it all back together. In the meantime, I'll probably just do more cleaning as well as inspecting the valve train, timing chain, and cams. Took some pics, nothing exciting. More pictures soon.
A lot of time spent working on the Saab this weekend. A lot of cleaning. Replaced coolant hoses, almost all vacuum lines (MAP sensor, fuel pressure regulator, BPV, valve cover vent), also renewed AIC lines to the intake above and below the throttle body. Pulled valve cover, throttle body, fuel injectors, and intake manifold. New gaskets or o-rings in all. One fuel injector is missing a plastic cap, which cracked and was lost while sitting aside in the engine bay.
With the valve cover off, I was able to examine the cam sprockets and a section of the timing chain. Everything looked good, the chain only budged maybe 1/4" up and down in the stretch between cams.
Wound up using both the salvage alternator and the new voltage regulator-- the brushes on the salvage alternator's regulator were worn to stubs. The new voltage regulator didn't help the alternator that came with the car, and so I replaced it with the salvage alternator. The bottom alternator bolt was stripped, had to drill and tap it out. It's back in, finger tight, for now, need to get a replacement. Fortunately, it's accessible behind a panel in the front right wheelwell.
Replaced tensioner and idler pulleys with new parts. New serpentine belt.
Removed the front HO2S. It rattles when shaked. Returned to exhaust, but plan to replace; the removal, examination, and replacement may have put it out of its misery..
The plastic wiring harness on the coolant temp sender broke when removing it from the intake manifold, repaired with gorilla glue, we'll see if that lasts...
Didn't get around to: fuel filter, cabin intake air filter, cabin heater coolant hoses, center pulley (current one seems ok), exhaust/turbo disassembly. (One exhaust manifold stud sheared when I went to loosen it, I stopped there.) Also didn't get around to further disassembly of the 2nd engine block.
With the valve cover off, I was able to examine the cam sprockets and a section of the timing chain. Everything looked good, the chain only budged maybe 1/4" up and down in the stretch between cams.
Wound up using both the salvage alternator and the new voltage regulator-- the brushes on the salvage alternator's regulator were worn to stubs. The new voltage regulator didn't help the alternator that came with the car, and so I replaced it with the salvage alternator. The bottom alternator bolt was stripped, had to drill and tap it out. It's back in, finger tight, for now, need to get a replacement. Fortunately, it's accessible behind a panel in the front right wheelwell.
Replaced tensioner and idler pulleys with new parts. New serpentine belt.
Removed the front HO2S. It rattles when shaked. Returned to exhaust, but plan to replace; the removal, examination, and replacement may have put it out of its misery..
The plastic wiring harness on the coolant temp sender broke when removing it from the intake manifold, repaired with gorilla glue, we'll see if that lasts...
Didn't get around to: fuel filter, cabin intake air filter, cabin heater coolant hoses, center pulley (current one seems ok), exhaust/turbo disassembly. (One exhaust manifold stud sheared when I went to loosen it, I stopped there.) Also didn't get around to further disassembly of the 2nd engine block.
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RX-7 Chris
- Posts: 7800
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
looks like you are making good progress. Any pics?
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
weekend work pics
Here are some photos from this weekend's efforts-- sorry, was too tired/lazy to post them last night:
Cylinder head intake ports after removing manifold:
And before replacing manifold (with new gasket):
left: tired. right: less tired.
after all this:
Cylinder head intake ports after removing manifold:
And before replacing manifold (with new gasket):
left: tired. right: less tired.
after all this:
The local NAPA autoparts store is trying to find me a replacement alternator bolt; in the meantime, the stripped bolt is back in, finger tight. Took her for a 60 mile test drive last night. Excluding the dead forward HO2S (replacement on its way), everything seems pretty much nominal. Drove her to work today, am still really satisfied with how well everything is working. The engine is a lot quieter as a result of replacing bad pulleys. Idles smooth at the correct target RPM with no misfires. No apparent boost issues. Downhill + uphill round trip avg: 25mpg
Little niggles: possibly tired engine or tranny mount makes the gearshifter hop back and forth a little. There's a intermittently recurring 'pop!' in the OEM radio/CD deck's audio, probably a head unit harness issue, but I haven't investigated that yet. Turn signal column doesn't always stay engaged when signalling a turn. I'm not sure the driver side seat heater is working.
Little niggles: possibly tired engine or tranny mount makes the gearshifter hop back and forth a little. There's a intermittently recurring 'pop!' in the OEM radio/CD deck's audio, probably a head unit harness issue, but I haven't investigated that yet. Turn signal column doesn't always stay engaged when signalling a turn. I'm not sure the driver side seat heater is working.
Replaced what was quite possibly the world's nastiest cabin air filter.
Drove out to Silverthorne and back via I-70. Nice drive, light traffic.
Upon returning home, found new Bosche OE HO2S ($70) and NGK BCPR7ES-11 spark plugs waiting in the mail from RockAuto.com. Put copper anti-seize on the threads of all and then Installed. Took her for a drive to the supermarket and noticed sharper acceleration; more torque... Filled up on 91 octane (as usual). Will see where things settle out as the ECU takes HO2S readings into account, but it's feeling pretty good now in terms of how it drives.
NAPA found a replacement for the stripped alternator bolt, which is now installed.
Drove out to Silverthorne and back via I-70. Nice drive, light traffic.
Upon returning home, found new Bosche OE HO2S ($70) and NGK BCPR7ES-11 spark plugs waiting in the mail from RockAuto.com. Put copper anti-seize on the threads of all and then Installed. Took her for a drive to the supermarket and noticed sharper acceleration; more torque... Filled up on 91 octane (as usual). Will see where things settle out as the ECU takes HO2S readings into account, but it's feeling pretty good now in terms of how it drives.
NAPA found a replacement for the stripped alternator bolt, which is now installed.
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RX-7 Chris
- Posts: 7800
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
sounds like the car is coming together.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
Drove her to work and back today, am very satisfied with how the powertrain feels, and a bit more fresh air through the HVAC. At one point I checked and the LTFTs were hanging around 22, the lowest I've seen, and presumably still dropping. Smoother at low RPMs. 3rd gear pulls into boost are a blast. 
Some minor maintenance the last few days. Flushed and bled brakes, replaced fuel filter. Not much else happened on the car itself, especially with the weather, so I've turned my attention to the 2nd engine I bought a few weeks ago.
On the exterior of the engine, I removed the throttle body, fuel injectors and rail, intake manifold, water pump, some coolant hard lines, and the valve cover. The timing chain looked intact.
Acquired an E16 socket in order to de-torque this engine's cylinder head. Once removed, the top end looked pretty much intact and hopefully good for a rebuild.
Perhaps I'll find out why it was knocking in one cylinder when I drop the oil pan off the block. For now, the reason isn't jumping out at me.
On the exterior of the engine, I removed the throttle body, fuel injectors and rail, intake manifold, water pump, some coolant hard lines, and the valve cover. The timing chain looked intact.
Acquired an E16 socket in order to de-torque this engine's cylinder head. Once removed, the top end looked pretty much intact and hopefully good for a rebuild.
Perhaps I'll find out why it was knocking in one cylinder when I drop the oil pan off the block. For now, the reason isn't jumping out at me.
It's been about a week since my last update. The SAAB has been driven almost daily, and it seems to be running reasonably well. No new trouble codes or CELs, although I'm still trying to come to grips with how/why it is setting short term / long term fuel trims the way it is.
The lowest LTFT I've seen has been 22. It will often sit around 30, with occasional jumps up to around 50. Every once in a while, it will jump to 99.22 on the LTFT, but usually jumps back down within the same trip. I am at a loss.
Picked up an ELM327 OBDII-to-bluetooth adapter (http://amzn.com/B0051DUVK0) and a copy of Torque Pro (http://torque-bhp.com/) for Android. It is capable of logging OBDII PIDs to CSV format logs along with some GPS-derived data. Initially, I've been visualizing this data using the LiveGraph java-based app (http://www.live-graph.org/).
typical trip: (light green: LTFT, dark green: STFT)
I'm not sure what else I should be investigating to bring the LTFTs under control, I'm running out of places to look for an obvious vacuum leak (perhaps something less obvious, like the brake booster?). I'm beginning to wonder if the fuel system (fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and/or injectors) is suspect. I hope it's not something really weird, like a poorly-retuned ECU.
The lowest LTFT I've seen has been 22. It will often sit around 30, with occasional jumps up to around 50. Every once in a while, it will jump to 99.22 on the LTFT, but usually jumps back down within the same trip. I am at a loss.
Picked up an ELM327 OBDII-to-bluetooth adapter (http://amzn.com/B0051DUVK0) and a copy of Torque Pro (http://torque-bhp.com/) for Android. It is capable of logging OBDII PIDs to CSV format logs along with some GPS-derived data. Initially, I've been visualizing this data using the LiveGraph java-based app (http://www.live-graph.org/).
typical trip: (light green: LTFT, dark green: STFT)
I'm not sure what else I should be investigating to bring the LTFTs under control, I'm running out of places to look for an obvious vacuum leak (perhaps something less obvious, like the brake booster?). I'm beginning to wonder if the fuel system (fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and/or injectors) is suspect. I hope it's not something really weird, like a poorly-retuned ECU.
The ECU finally did get around to posting another CEL/MIL with a P1171 (Closed loop >25% for more than 20 sec.) Left it around for a while, but nothing was changing, so I went ahead and cleared it. Hasn't come back (but it likely will sooner or later).
According to SAAB's WIS (Workshop Information System, a hideous .HLP-like Windows documentation database provided in lieu of a proper factory service manual), P1171 can be caused by: misfiring, vacuum leaks, problems with the MAP sensor, front HO2S or related electrical problems, a stuck evap canister purge valve, an exhaust system leak between ports and front HO2S (in turbo?).
At this point, I'm fairly certain that the front HO2S and connection are good, the MAP sensor is good (correctly reports 10.5 PSI ambient pressure at 8700ft elevation), the vacuum lines are tight, the evap purge valve is good (disconnected the vacuum line between valve and canister, valve opens and closes as it should). I haven't yet been able to eval the fuel rail pressure, injectors, nor possible exhaust leaks between engine and front HO2S (e.g.: in the manifold or turbo itself), nor possible misfires (though it seems to run well). When reset, the trouble code does not come back immediately, but, the LTFTs are still holding around +25 or more. It's really just a minor annoyance and not really a drivability issue per se.
I'm continually amazed at the availability of cheap parts for my SAAB. I'm not sure if it's the age of the mid-90s cars, the brand's sleeper status, or simply the bankruptcy, but with a little shopping around, pulled parts are extremely cheap. Case in point, I ordered another ECU for $55 shipped yesterday. I'm seeing more running mid-90s (GM-era) SAAB turbo cars sold on craigslist for anywhere from $650-1800 frequently here in the Denver region, and even more being parted out.
Happily, the SAAB Trionic ECUs are a "solved" problem in that there's an open-source community built up around retuning/modding it. There's a full editing suite (Trionic5 Suite, http://trionic.mobixs.eu/) as well as BDM/CANBUS interfaces to allow access to the ECU's flash and SRAM. There's a full set of tuning options, including a turnkey stage1 that adds 40hp (going from 185hp/265ft-lb to 225hp) without any powertrain mods.
The suite has predefined adjustments for plug-and-play operation with different turbos and injectors, as well as a clearly-defined set of upgrades for higher stages. It even includes the original firmwares for almost every software revision to the ECU (the hardware didn't really change at all for nearly a decade, aside from a ECU CPU jump from 16MHZ to 20MHZ when OBD-II came along in '96). I'm also lucky that if I get serious, there's a nationally-recognized SAAB tuner right here in the Denver area I can go to.
Anyway, I'm having fun with it and learning a ton by getting my hands dirty on a cheap car with decent power.
According to SAAB's WIS (Workshop Information System, a hideous .HLP-like Windows documentation database provided in lieu of a proper factory service manual), P1171 can be caused by: misfiring, vacuum leaks, problems with the MAP sensor, front HO2S or related electrical problems, a stuck evap canister purge valve, an exhaust system leak between ports and front HO2S (in turbo?).
At this point, I'm fairly certain that the front HO2S and connection are good, the MAP sensor is good (correctly reports 10.5 PSI ambient pressure at 8700ft elevation), the vacuum lines are tight, the evap purge valve is good (disconnected the vacuum line between valve and canister, valve opens and closes as it should). I haven't yet been able to eval the fuel rail pressure, injectors, nor possible exhaust leaks between engine and front HO2S (e.g.: in the manifold or turbo itself), nor possible misfires (though it seems to run well). When reset, the trouble code does not come back immediately, but, the LTFTs are still holding around +25 or more. It's really just a minor annoyance and not really a drivability issue per se.
I'm continually amazed at the availability of cheap parts for my SAAB. I'm not sure if it's the age of the mid-90s cars, the brand's sleeper status, or simply the bankruptcy, but with a little shopping around, pulled parts are extremely cheap. Case in point, I ordered another ECU for $55 shipped yesterday. I'm seeing more running mid-90s (GM-era) SAAB turbo cars sold on craigslist for anywhere from $650-1800 frequently here in the Denver region, and even more being parted out.
Happily, the SAAB Trionic ECUs are a "solved" problem in that there's an open-source community built up around retuning/modding it. There's a full editing suite (Trionic5 Suite, http://trionic.mobixs.eu/) as well as BDM/CANBUS interfaces to allow access to the ECU's flash and SRAM. There's a full set of tuning options, including a turnkey stage1 that adds 40hp (going from 185hp/265ft-lb to 225hp) without any powertrain mods.
The suite has predefined adjustments for plug-and-play operation with different turbos and injectors, as well as a clearly-defined set of upgrades for higher stages. It even includes the original firmwares for almost every software revision to the ECU (the hardware didn't really change at all for nearly a decade, aside from a ECU CPU jump from 16MHZ to 20MHZ when OBD-II came along in '96). I'm also lucky that if I get serious, there's a nationally-recognized SAAB tuner right here in the Denver area I can go to.
Anyway, I'm having fun with it and learning a ton by getting my hands dirty on a cheap car with decent power.
Minor update. Replaced turn signal / cruise control stalk with an ebay pull, lubricated a plastic tab that interacts with collar around steering column to reset turn signal after turn. Frustratingly, the new one is still occasionally failing to lock into a signal position. I'll have to play with that some more.
Some bondo and rattlecan primer, then black paint, on the damaged passenger side and hood paint. Fun fun. At least, it shouldn't rust until I can do better.
In pursuit of the running-lean / rich LTFT issue, I pulled the ECU and scrubbed the contacts with electrical cleaner and steel brush. Reinstalled. I also noticed that the throttle position sensor was at 10% when idle, but when floored to WOT would go to 75-82% somewhat randomly. It'd hold whatever value, but wasn't consistent. Pulled TPS and checked resistance, 2500 ohm at idle, 850 ohm at WOT, which is in-spec. Noticed harness connector looked a little corroded, cleaned with some deoxit and some steel dental tools. Replaced, now WOT goes to 89% open via PIDs. When driving to work today, LTFT dropped to +18, we'll see if that holds.
Ordered a second ECU on ebay, in the process of purchasing a BDM/CANbus interface compatible with the Trionic5 Suite, an ECU editor for this ECU. The plan will be to reflash the 2nd ECU from auto the manual tranny and drop it in and see if anything changes, then if it looks okay, reflash to stage 1. Also want to compare original ECU with original firmware image and see if it's been molested in the past.
Hooking up with a CL parts seller later today to get the following pulls: ignition coil cassette, Garrett T25 turbocharger, driver side front turn signal assembly, exhaust manifold heat shield/cover, wiper arm nut caps. $180 for all.
Some bondo and rattlecan primer, then black paint, on the damaged passenger side and hood paint. Fun fun. At least, it shouldn't rust until I can do better.
In pursuit of the running-lean / rich LTFT issue, I pulled the ECU and scrubbed the contacts with electrical cleaner and steel brush. Reinstalled. I also noticed that the throttle position sensor was at 10% when idle, but when floored to WOT would go to 75-82% somewhat randomly. It'd hold whatever value, but wasn't consistent. Pulled TPS and checked resistance, 2500 ohm at idle, 850 ohm at WOT, which is in-spec. Noticed harness connector looked a little corroded, cleaned with some deoxit and some steel dental tools. Replaced, now WOT goes to 89% open via PIDs. When driving to work today, LTFT dropped to +18, we'll see if that holds.
Ordered a second ECU on ebay, in the process of purchasing a BDM/CANbus interface compatible with the Trionic5 Suite, an ECU editor for this ECU. The plan will be to reflash the 2nd ECU from auto the manual tranny and drop it in and see if anything changes, then if it looks okay, reflash to stage 1. Also want to compare original ECU with original firmware image and see if it's been molested in the past.
Hooking up with a CL parts seller later today to get the following pulls: ignition coil cassette, Garrett T25 turbocharger, driver side front turn signal assembly, exhaust manifold heat shield/cover, wiper arm nut caps. $180 for all.
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