The S2000

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Shadowden
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Postby Shadowden » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:14

geo2maz wrote:Image


Just noticed the yellow hatch with black wheels making the turn. haha. :huh:

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kingtut
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Postby kingtut » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:14

What's the driver doing with his arm? Is he short? Smokin'? Giving a 'fist' to someone?
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geo2maz
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Postby geo2maz » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:14

kingtut wrote:What's the driver doing with his arm? Is he short? Smokin'? Giving a 'fist' to someone?


he was smoking...
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kingtut
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Postby kingtut » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:14

Nice! That was my first guess, second being- "the fist".
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Image

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geo2maz
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Postby geo2maz » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:14

kingtut wrote:Nice! That was my first guess, second being- "the fist".


fist-pumpin-in a-town woot woot!!
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Shadowden
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Postby Shadowden » Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:14

Last night I messed around the car some. Removed the front driver side wheel to take a peak at the brake pads (look good) and take some measurements of the centerbore of the wheel. I bought the car with a missing centercap and need the dimension to get a new one. Chances are I won't find one, so I anticipate running all 4 without [sans for tut] wheel caps unless someone knows a person capable of manufacturing a new one for me (they are aluminum). I have some hope that the GT10 centercap on ebay right now has the same dimensions. If so, I can get some SSR overlay decals and make them all match. These are "show/DD" wheels, so as long as they look good.

I also made the template for the base of my strut bar towers. I know the outside shape I need to cut (figuring a jigsaw with a metal blade and some grinding). I still need to figure out how to get the holes for the strut tops and mounting lugs to be right so the towers and base plates sit exactly how I want. I am betting ecam will figure this out in about 30 seconds. I also want to figure out how to lower a cable mount to give more room and clean up the engine bay some. Not sure exactly what the cable does yet (will look in my helm manual), but early thoughts are that is it is part of cruise control. As I will rarely if ever use CC, I am considering the idea of removing it all completely. Not sure about that though.

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Shadowden
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Postby Shadowden » Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:14

Stopped by AA's place of employement to have him unmount the older snow tires from sthe stock rims I bought. Started the paint prepping process. It will be a fairly long process, ubt I hope the diligent prep results in a fine finished product.

I haven't decided on color 100% yet, but since these are winter/autocross wheels, I'll either go satin black with blue pinstripe at the edge or something really gaudy. PArt of the issue is paint selection for high temperature environments.

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Postby geo2maz » Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:14

Shadowden wrote:Stopped by AA's place of employement to have him unmount the older snow tires from sthe stock rims I bought. Started the paint prepping process. It will be a fairly long process, ubt I hope the diligent prep results in a fine finished product.

I haven't decided on color 100% yet, but since these are winter/autocross wheels, I'll either go satin black with blue pinstripe at the edge or something really gaudy. PArt of the issue is paint selection for high temperature environments.


You know what I'm gonna say.... But if you don't: "dip them!" :) blaze blue cans are hitting local stores very soon ...
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Postby Shadowden » Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:14

I have neared completion of painting 1 wheel. I sanded it with 150-220-400 sandpaper, cleaned it with a scotch brite and simple green, then washed it all off. Following this, I hit it with 2 coats of self etching rustoleum (olive). I decided to give roll bar and chassis paint made by VHT a try. It is satin black. At this point, I have most of the color down. I had some imperfections I cleaned up by wet sanding with 400 grit. I am going to respray this wheel in a few days after I do a full wet sand of the face with 500 grit. After this paint coat, I'm going to bake it overnight with my garage service light in a box. Polish it with some fine polish, then put on the blue pinstripe. If i like how it looks, I'll do the rest of them...otherwise, they will all go to a professional for mediablasting and powdercoating.

Interstingly, I really liked hte look of the olive primer. I even contemplated painting the wheelsa satin olive green. Only reason I didn't is that I didn't want to go look for the right paint and return the stuff I bought already.
150 sand
Image
220 sand (no pic of 400 sand yet)
Image

primed
Image

After color and sanding down some imperfections
Image
Image

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kingtut
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Postby kingtut » Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:14

I can testify to the fact that Shadow was tied up this weekend, workong on said project.
one and one makes two, together we are free

Image

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Shadowden
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Postby Shadowden » Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:14

kingtut wrote:I can testify to the fact that Shadow was tied up this weekend, workong on said project.


In addition to a slight reconfiguration of the garage, which kept me preoccupied Saturday evening.:rolleyes:

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Shadowden
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Postby Shadowden » Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:14

Tried to remove rubber seals for the coils that go through the valvecover so I could take it in for powder coating. I have failed thus far. Do they use some sort of sealant on those things to hold them in place normally? I pushed and pulled and pried and they didn't budge.

Going to go candy blue on it. Perfectly clean Stock AP1 Valve Cover will soon be for sale.

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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:14

pic of said seals?
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tsx_guy
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Postby tsx_guy » Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:14

damn those look good
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Shadowden
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Postby Shadowden » Fri Nov 02, 2012 9:14

Seals removed. I was wrong in assuming that the entire seal was soft rubber. Used a screwdriver and a hammer and had to knock them out from the top. Once I got a little more aggressive with things, it was an easy removal. Need new seals now so I ordered the kit.

Dropped the Valve Cover off at Pristine Powdercoat this morning. Valve Cover will be coated candy blue. So, a chrome base with a translucent blue sprayed over the top.


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