Yesterday was a bad day. I woke up to a flat front driver-side tire. It took forever to break the lug nuts free but I eventually got the spare on and headed off to work. On the way, I noticed what felt like (and smelled like) my E-brake dragging. It prolly wasn't the smartest idea, but I was already over an hour late for work (yea, it took that long to change the tire) so I just kept driving.
I ended up leaving work early to take the flat tire to the dealer (I bought the car used from Groove Mazda and took the extended warranty) to have them fix the flat and reinstall on the car. But that "burnt brake" smell came back so, not even half way to the shop I pulled over and called a tow-truck.
In short, I (riding in the tow-truck) got to the shop late, gave them my Speed6 and took a 2010 Mazda 3 as a dealer-offered rental (nowhere near as fun) while they kept it over night and fixed it today. I got a call from them today with the verdict on the "rubbing" and the burning brake smell.
Bad News: My front differential is completely shot and it'll be a week before they will receive the necessary parts.
Good news: I got the extended warranty, so it's covered.
Now, some questions.
1. What would cause a diff to go out?
2. Since I'm already having work done to the diff, would anyone recommend I stop the shop and have them install something (anything?) other than the stock components? (this would prolly come into conflict with the warranty coverage, but if I should be doing something else, I might be able to convince the wife that it's worth the money)
Thanks for any info and suggestions!
Speed6: Out of Action
I would ask the dealer for more info on what went bad. Was is out of oil? Was there a bunch on one tire burnouts (unlikely with AWD)? Tell them you are concerned with reliability "am looking at another Mazda for my wife/dad/sister/friend". This could be a defect that Mazda has addressed and you are getting an upgrade. There is power in numbers, "the people on the Mazda website are wondering too".
As far as upgrades, I do not know...but I hoped this helped anyway.
As far as upgrades, I do not know...but I hoped this helped anyway.
Eric
99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/
2 Fords 29 & 2000.
99 BMW 328i
THANKS! To all who serve.
99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/
2 Fords 29 & 2000.
99 BMW 328i
THANKS! To all who serve.
What could cause a bad diff? Lots of things. But if you know the car was not abused, then my guess it will turn out to be a manufacturing defect or assembly problem. And by abuse, I do not mean driving the cars like we own them and enjoy them. The car was designed for just that. Dumping a clutch with high boost and high traction is alot to ask of anything.
Diff, in your case can mean many things. There are three "diffs" in your Speed6. Each axle has a diff between the wheels. Also one that sends power back to rear diff. A "diff" can be the transaxle including the transmission, diff and power take off (transfer case/center diff).
Keep in mind, if the dealer even thought it COULD be your fault, this would not be warranty. Keep us posted.
Diff, in your case can mean many things. There are three "diffs" in your Speed6. Each axle has a diff between the wheels. Also one that sends power back to rear diff. A "diff" can be the transaxle including the transmission, diff and power take off (transfer case/center diff).
Keep in mind, if the dealer even thought it COULD be your fault, this would not be warranty. Keep us posted.
Eric
99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/
2 Fords 29 & 2000.
99 BMW 328i
THANKS! To all who serve.
99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/
2 Fords 29 & 2000.
99 BMW 328i
THANKS! To all who serve.
Thanks a lot for the info and additional questions!
I called the dealer back for more info:
The front differential fluid was black and the rear differential fluid was extremely dirty as well.
When I asked if the rear diff had failed as well, he said they would be looking but they didn't think so because they didn't find any metal in the rear diff fluid. I believe (but failed to clarify) that his statement implies metal was found in the front diff fluid.
I then asked what he believed was the cause of failure and specifically asked if he believed it was due to the diff being under-engineered. He blamed the previous owner for lack of proper maintenance. I bought the car at 33k miles and it's now at almost 45k with a required differential fluid change at 30k. They are interpreting the level of dirtiness as an indicator that the fluid wasn't changed when it should have been.
Even given that, I feel like 45,000 miles is way too early for it to fail. Which now has me worrying. When I first bought this car, I admittedly only had limited experience driving a manual transmission (2 times behind the wheel of one, 2 years ago). But I wanted AWD, turbo, and a manual and I consider myself a fast learner. So I bought it, crawled off of the lot and learned on my own. Then, within 150 miles of purchase, the clutch went out. I want to stress that I wasn't being overly hard on the clutch. I was still learning but I was taking it easy. Even given the fact that I was learning, unless I was consistently revving up to 5k rpm and slowly slipping the clutch to start moving each time, then it shouldn't have gone out in 150 miles.
That is, unless the previous owner was heavily abusing the car. And the front differential going out like this seems to point in that direction as well. Cuz I do enjoy this car, but I'm not abusing it.
Now i'm starting to wonder if something else is going to break. I love this car, but that warranty is gonna be up in just over 1,000 more miles...
I called the dealer back for more info:
The front differential fluid was black and the rear differential fluid was extremely dirty as well.
When I asked if the rear diff had failed as well, he said they would be looking but they didn't think so because they didn't find any metal in the rear diff fluid. I believe (but failed to clarify) that his statement implies metal was found in the front diff fluid.
I then asked what he believed was the cause of failure and specifically asked if he believed it was due to the diff being under-engineered. He blamed the previous owner for lack of proper maintenance. I bought the car at 33k miles and it's now at almost 45k with a required differential fluid change at 30k. They are interpreting the level of dirtiness as an indicator that the fluid wasn't changed when it should have been.
Even given that, I feel like 45,000 miles is way too early for it to fail. Which now has me worrying. When I first bought this car, I admittedly only had limited experience driving a manual transmission (2 times behind the wheel of one, 2 years ago). But I wanted AWD, turbo, and a manual and I consider myself a fast learner. So I bought it, crawled off of the lot and learned on my own. Then, within 150 miles of purchase, the clutch went out. I want to stress that I wasn't being overly hard on the clutch. I was still learning but I was taking it easy. Even given the fact that I was learning, unless I was consistently revving up to 5k rpm and slowly slipping the clutch to start moving each time, then it shouldn't have gone out in 150 miles.
That is, unless the previous owner was heavily abusing the car. And the front differential going out like this seems to point in that direction as well. Cuz I do enjoy this car, but I'm not abusing it.
Now i'm starting to wonder if something else is going to break. I love this car, but that warranty is gonna be up in just over 1,000 more miles...
-
RX-7 Chris
- Posts: 7800
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
I would replace all the fluids if you haven't already.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
Well the saying goes, pay now or pay later. CHANGE THE FLUIDS. Keep to the schedule, shorten it for severe use. Fluids and maintenance parts are cheap comparied to repair. That car will last for years and many miles if cared for.
Learning to drive a clutch is something we all did. The clutch, like brakes are designed to wear. The last clutch was probably almost toast when you started driving it. Now you have a new one, and soon a new "diff". Enjoy your speed 6, it is a really cool ride. Hone your skills and change the fluids, bring it over and I'll show you how if you need the help. That car should go 200,000 miles or more if cared for. Never change the oil and neglect it and like anything else, wont last long at all.
Be sure to bring it out to one of the RMSolo autocross events - that'll help hone those skills!
Learning to drive a clutch is something we all did. The clutch, like brakes are designed to wear. The last clutch was probably almost toast when you started driving it. Now you have a new one, and soon a new "diff". Enjoy your speed 6, it is a really cool ride. Hone your skills and change the fluids, bring it over and I'll show you how if you need the help. That car should go 200,000 miles or more if cared for. Never change the oil and neglect it and like anything else, wont last long at all.
Be sure to bring it out to one of the RMSolo autocross events - that'll help hone those skills!
Eric
99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/
2 Fords 29 & 2000.
99 BMW 328i
THANKS! To all who serve.
99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/
2 Fords 29 & 2000.
99 BMW 328i
THANKS! To all who serve.
That was something I should have done to start off with. I have always made sure to change the oil in this and my previous car and have made it a point to stick to the service schedule. But it never occurred to me to look at what previous service should have been performed. I know I simply 'trusted' that the dealer had made sure all previous service had been performed. A clear mistake.
From this little adventure, I have learned that if you don't know for sure, then just assume it needs changing. Especially when buying used, because then you never know.
Hopefully I'll make it to a few autocross events in the future. That is something I would definitely like to do.
Thanks a lot for all of the input!
From this little adventure, I have learned that if you don't know for sure, then just assume it needs changing. Especially when buying used, because then you never know.
Hopefully I'll make it to a few autocross events in the future. That is something I would definitely like to do.
Thanks a lot for all of the input!
This may sound like a very silly question, but it's possible this could at least answer *part* of the question as to why the front diff failed right at that time:
Is the spare tire the same exact diameter as the regular tire? If it isn't, that *might* have caused the front differential to be overworked considerably, during your drive to work, and caused massive heat build-up, depending on how fast you were going...
I fully admit that I don't know the specifics of the MazdaSpeed6 differentials, whether they're all limited slip units, etc., so this could be completely wrong - but chances are that if the two front wheels are different diameters, that could very well be at least a partial culprit.
Just a thought - it's worth a quick visual check, I'd say.
Is the spare tire the same exact diameter as the regular tire? If it isn't, that *might* have caused the front differential to be overworked considerably, during your drive to work, and caused massive heat build-up, depending on how fast you were going...
I fully admit that I don't know the specifics of the MazdaSpeed6 differentials, whether they're all limited slip units, etc., so this could be completely wrong - but chances are that if the two front wheels are different diameters, that could very well be at least a partial culprit.
Just a thought - it's worth a quick visual check, I'd say.
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi "Sumaire"
World Rally Blue Pearl
415 bhp, 410 ft-lbs
...And yes, it can actually take corners now, too.
"Racing makes a heroine addiction look like a vague craving for something salty!"
Wow, sorry Sumaire. For some reason I didn't see your post until now.
I don't know for sure, but I am pretty sure that it is a full-size spare. And, because I wasn't confident about its speed-rating, I took side roads that morning. Meaning I never went above 55. Also, I started to smell the problem only 15 minutes into my 30 minute commute. So, being the direct cause seems unlikely to me. But I wouldn't be surprised if it definitely contributed. Actually, I've got a friend out in California (also owns a Subie WRX) and he mentioned this same thing.
But now for good news. The dealer finally got the parts in this morning, and they hope to have it done by 5 tonight. It has been way too long...
But now I've got another question. While talking with the dealer, he affirmed it was under warranty but later he said that all diff fluid should be changed (no question there) and he quoted a price of a couple hundred. I admittedly don't know the front diff replacement procedure, but in my thinking, changing or replacing that fluid should be a part of the diff replacement. Since that part *and* that work is covered under warranty, I don't think I should be charged for the front diff fluid. Admittedly I think i'll need to pay for the rear diff fluid to be changed, but that's fine. I just don't want to pay for something if I don't have to.
Does anyone agree that I should contest the charge for the front diff fluid replacement or should I just pay it?
Thanks in advance!
I don't know for sure, but I am pretty sure that it is a full-size spare. And, because I wasn't confident about its speed-rating, I took side roads that morning. Meaning I never went above 55. Also, I started to smell the problem only 15 minutes into my 30 minute commute. So, being the direct cause seems unlikely to me. But I wouldn't be surprised if it definitely contributed. Actually, I've got a friend out in California (also owns a Subie WRX) and he mentioned this same thing.
But now for good news. The dealer finally got the parts in this morning, and they hope to have it done by 5 tonight. It has been way too long...
But now I've got another question. While talking with the dealer, he affirmed it was under warranty but later he said that all diff fluid should be changed (no question there) and he quoted a price of a couple hundred. I admittedly don't know the front diff replacement procedure, but in my thinking, changing or replacing that fluid should be a part of the diff replacement. Since that part *and* that work is covered under warranty, I don't think I should be charged for the front diff fluid. Admittedly I think i'll need to pay for the rear diff fluid to be changed, but that's fine. I just don't want to pay for something if I don't have to.
Does anyone agree that I should contest the charge for the front diff fluid replacement or should I just pay it?
Thanks in advance!
I'd ask if he is charging for the new fluid that is part of the warranty repair or other "diff" cases. I agree that if he is passing the bill on to Mazda for the repair the new fluid should be included. I do buisness with a tranny supplier, whenever we do a warranty job, we forward all parts, labor and fluid on to them. Make sure you get an invoice (even a no charge) showing the work that was done "for your records". They may not want to give you one but they should be able to provide you one.
Eric
99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/
2 Fords 29 & 2000.
99 BMW 328i
THANKS! To all who serve.
99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/
2 Fords 29 & 2000.
99 BMW 328i
THANKS! To all who serve.
Speed6 owner here.
The differential mounts on our cars are soft. Too soft. They are made for comfort, not performance. The bolts that hold the differential in place are also not high enough strength to handle the massive torque that our motors put out. So when the motor sends that power through the driveshaft it can bend enough to make the bolts or one of the two mounts fail, which in turn could cause the differential seal to leak.
If I had all the money in the world I would buy both the front differential mount & the rear differential mount. Then I would buy the rear motor mount & I would finally launch the damn car anytime I pleased like it should have been designed from the start.
If you aren't looking to spend $1000 on parts and labor you can also use the "Ghetto Strap" technique like I did. I've had mine ghetto strapped for like 30K miles now and I haven't broken anything. I can't find the link now, but it involves using those very high strength ratchet tow straps and strapping that F'N differential to the frame rails of the car lol. It ain't pretty, but it does the job (thats what she said).
The differential mounts on our cars are soft. Too soft. They are made for comfort, not performance. The bolts that hold the differential in place are also not high enough strength to handle the massive torque that our motors put out. So when the motor sends that power through the driveshaft it can bend enough to make the bolts or one of the two mounts fail, which in turn could cause the differential seal to leak.
If I had all the money in the world I would buy both the front differential mount & the rear differential mount. Then I would buy the rear motor mount & I would finally launch the damn car anytime I pleased like it should have been designed from the start.
If you aren't looking to spend $1000 on parts and labor you can also use the "Ghetto Strap" technique like I did. I've had mine ghetto strapped for like 30K miles now and I haven't broken anything. I can't find the link now, but it involves using those very high strength ratchet tow straps and strapping that F'N differential to the frame rails of the car lol. It ain't pretty, but it does the job (thats what she said).
[color="Silver"]Old: 2004 Mazda6, 2006 MS6[/color]
New: 2010 EVO X MR - 400hp, 360tq
New: 2010 EVO X MR - 400hp, 360tq
I will have to research this ghetto strapping as I also do not have all the money in the world. And thanks for the links. I've added those items to my wish list on that site and maybe, someday, I'll get those replaced.
Side note: Is it legitimate to TWSS one's own statement? Kinda feels like cheating...
Side note: Is it legitimate to TWSS one's own statement? Kinda feels like cheating...
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 39 guests