Installed: CP-e Standback II EMS

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Originalguy
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Postby Originalguy » Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:14

dang dude
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TheNewBlack
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Postby TheNewBlack » Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:14

Originalguy wrote:and for the vallet mode i would imagine that it would switch instantly but if you download the PDF the website has you can read about how it works
What do you mean by switch instantly?...you cant change maps while youre driving or anything....the ignition needs to be turned off each time you switch maps. It takes about 20 seconds usually for me to do this. Just pull over right before you give the car to a valet or whatever and change the map real quick. You can also use an anti theft map that wont allow the car to start at all.
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:14

You can't change maps on the fly with the AP. That is one of the downfalls of the AP...the lack of live tuning. But it still writes the PCM in about 70 seconds and works very well. It's worth it.

Also, I can help anyone map custom tunes for their car for less than $350....
:eek:

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Originalguy
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Postby Originalguy » Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:14

yeah it sounded like somewhat of an inconvinence
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Eclipse
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Postby Eclipse » Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:14

I never really thought about that aspect with the AP... I loved the ability to change maps with the flip of a switch, even at WOT on the standback
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erod550
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Postby erod550 » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:14

If you want the most out of the Standback you need a custom tune also though, so that is going to be the same for both. I still haven't decided 100% what I'm going to get but I think I will give up the ability to switch maps while driving for the access to a lot more parts of the ECU. Especially If I can just pull over and flash it in a minute or two. That doesn't seem like too much of an inconvenience, considering it will probably be a pretty rare occasion that I will be switching maps. Changing maps for gas mileage and stuff never made much sense to me because you can easily still get good gas mileage by just staying out of boost.
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Originalguy
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Postby Originalguy » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:14

i agree but in that case go with the standback so that you can run stock boost then if someone challenges you just flip the switch and take him plus for gas mileage just shift early it doesnt matter what tuning system you have if you are staying out of boost
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TheNewBlack
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Postby TheNewBlack » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:14

Yeah I've changed my map a total of 2 times in the 4 months that I've had the AP. Once to go Stage 2 after I got my downpipe and custom tune. And once when I valeted the car up in Blackhawk ( didnt want the 18 year old pulling a Ferris Buellers' Day Off on me) To me if someone is that worried about gas mileage, you should be driving a Prius, you dont have a turbo sports car to save gas, maybe on long road trips, but even then, these cars are so much fun to drive that it just doesnt make sense to me to de-tune the car just to save a little $ on gas. Just my opinion though, everyone has their own reasons for doing what they do.
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Originalguy
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Postby Originalguy » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:14

agreed
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Rich
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Postby Rich » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:14

...not trying to threadjack, but...

$175 for an intake that retails for over $300 is a ripoff? $225 if u include the turbo inlet pipe? Fair prices in any economy if you ask me.

And the SB is up for $700 OBO, and so far I have NO offers. I'm not unreasonable, but I'm also not hurting for money. Anyone that knows me here can tell you I'm more than fair. You gotta pay to play, this isn't a charity.

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:14

Switching maps is pointless a pretty ricer feature, IMO. The ONLY way a tune switch has ANY sort of benefit is if you can switch from a pump gas to race gas tune.

Even for that, you don't need to do it on the fly, since you can't refuel your car while you are driving. You can do the same with the AP; have two maps- one for pump and one for race gas. Then while you're filling your tank with Q16 flash your new map, the ECU will be done flashing before you're done filling tank.

If you want to switch maps while driving you don't really understand tuning. Just tune your closed loop mode to cruise at stoich and your golden for fuel efficiency. Then tune open loop, obviously, for more aggressive timing and richer AFRs.

If you want more boost, let your EBC handle that. Most high end EBC's that work worth a damn have a scramble boost setting, so if someone challenges you, just enter scramble boost and let the EBC take care of the extra power. Or you can always modulate boost pressure via your left foot....
:eek:

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Eclipse
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Postby Eclipse » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:Switching maps is pointless a pretty ricer feature, IMO. The ONLY way a tune switch has ANY sort of benefit is if you can switch from a pump gas to race gas tune.

Even for that, you don't need to do it on the fly, since you can't refuel your car while you are driving. You can do the same with the AP; have two maps- one for pump and one for race gas. Then while you're filling your tank with Q16 flash your new map, the ECU will be done flashing before you're done filling tank.

If you want to switch maps while driving you don't really understand tuning. Just tune your closed loop mode to cruise at stoich and your golden for fuel efficiency. Then tune open loop, obviously, for more aggressive timing and richer AFRs.

If you want more boost, let your EBC handle that. Most high end EBC's that work worth a damn have a scramble boost setting, so if someone challenges you, just enter scramble boost and let the EBC take care of the extra power. Or you can always modulate boost pressure via your left foot....


people who dont have an ebc benefit from the map switch all the time to change boost levels on demand.
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:14

A standalone EBC will almost always control boost better than any sort of of standback system, most are going to be limited by factory boost control, same with flash devices. This is why even 500-awhp STi's running flash tunes still use an aftermarket EBC.
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Eclipse
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Postby Eclipse » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:A standalone EBC will almost always control boost better than any sort of of standback system, most are going to be limited by factory boost control, same with flash devices. This is why even 500-awhp STi's running flash tunes still use an aftermarket EBC.


yep, agreed completely... in fact, thats how i was set up. I used the EBC to control every aspect of boost, and just used the Standback for maps. Dont sell the Standback short on boost control though, it has the same settings similar to many aftermarket EBC's.. It uses a true PID (Proportional, Integral, Derivative) feedback loop in order to regulate boost pressure. It uses Kp, Kd, and Ki settings to give much more stable and accurate boost control

Fact remains, hardly ANYBODY on here is running an aftermarket EBC. Point is, the switch works great to change boost levels on demand for most of the users on this forum
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:14

If you're EMS can handle it and works as an EBC, then by all means, use it. I'm just saying MOST standbacks that even offer boost control and/or reflash and hell, even standalone EMS' don't generally have good boost control and an aftermarket EBC will almost always control boost better (like you having your E-Boost setup)

But the origin of my statement about a switch that changes tunes on the fly, my stance remains. Just changing boost pressure isn't really a tuning change unless you are making SERIOUS changes in boost pressure.

Even then, if you know what you are doing, you can still setup your tune properly so it can accommodate a very wide range of boost pressure. I don't have to change my maps on the AP from going as low as w/g spring (6psi) all the way to the max I've tried thus far, 17psi.
:eek:


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