So i ordered this performance chip...if you will, off of ebay. It was 25bucks so i figured why the hell not! Got it installed with my NGK colder plugs. The combination of the two are pretty impressive. The module(chip) is wired into the IAT wire of the MAF. And from what ive noticed it sends a colder temp to the ECU thus adjusting the fuel logic...more fuel/air. Car runs like a som bitch now! The only thing that concerns me is by tricking the ECU to think the air is colder...might lead to detonation problems??? Here's the link...i know its ghetto but hey, i was curious!B)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Performance-Chip-Mazdaspeed-Turbo-3-6-Miata-MX5-Protoge_W0QQitemZ350270997068QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item518dc7424c

If you don't have something to monitor your A/F ratios I would be very careful with that thing. It could just be leaning your car way out which will give you power sure, but is not good for the motor and could end up in a boom.

erod550 wrote:If you don't have something to monitor your A/F ratios I would be very careful with that thing. It could just be leaning your car way out which will give you power sure, but is not good for the motor and could end up in a boom.

I have a Dash Hawk so im always monitoring my A/F. Still runs rich, but i did notice the the IAT stays just a little lower than the Ambient temp. As far as producing 35hp...shiiiiiiit! One of these days i'll do it all right and just buy a standback!

How are you monitoring what it's sending to the ECU?

+1 To what erod said. It might be leaning you out.

Yeah i'd doubt its leaning it out...but at the same time, our cars don't really benefit much at all from running leaner, the HP gains is so minimal its not worth the possibility of something goin boom...so I am kinda curious as to what its really doing.

RedRoadster wrote:How are you monitoring what it's sending to the ECU?

+1 To what erod said. It might be leaning you out.

As far as what it sends to the ECU...i really dont know. The seller told me "The module adjusts the air charge temp value and the fuel control logic is adjusted by the PCM" On my DH ive noticed that the IAT stays around 10 deg. colder that ambient temp.

Huh. Well, if your DH is showing lower air temps, then the PCM will add more fuel to maintain the A/F target. So the DH still showing rich makes sense.

Those egay "chips" are basically resistors that fool the PCM into thinking denser air (cooler air) is entering the engine and thus more fuel is required. The problem is you make more power by running the engine as lean as possible before pre-ignition. Remember, engines ALWAYS make the most power right before they blow up.

The IAT can directly tie into a dynamic timing table within the factory PCM, however, so the cooler air charge may promote more aggressive ignition timing. Even so, we're talking a few degrees here and not much power.

Bottom line- you're feeling a Placebo.

chickenwafer wrote:Those egay "chips" are basically resistors that fool the PCM into thinking denser air (cooler air) is entering the engine and thus more fuel is required. The problem is you make more power by running the engine as lean as possible before pre-ignition. Remember, engines ALWAYS make the most power right before they blow up.

The IAT can directly tie into a dynamic timing table within the factory PCM, however, so the cooler air charge may promote more aggressive ignition timing. Even so, we're talking a few degrees here and not much power.

Bottom line- you're feeling a Placebo.

My afr's are 12:1 at 15psi at 4k rpm...pretty rich. Power could be the combo of the turbo inlet, plugs n the resistor/module. Why you gotta piss on my parade...haha:) The car runs really good but could always be better...a real turbo would help!

I'm going to second the advice to be wary. If the chip is getting your sensors to lie to your ECU, the DH may not be giving you accurate information about what is going on with your car.

rmeeker13 wrote:My afr's are 12:1 at 15psi at 4k rpm...pretty rich. Power could be the combo of the turbo inlet, plugs n the resistor/module. Why you gotta piss on my parade...haha:) The car runs really good but could always be better...a real turbo would help!

Actually that AFR is pretty damn good...even a little leaner than I tune my car for. Rich is generally under 11.0:1 and can even run to 9.0:1 which is what some of the factory Mazdaspeed cars run at to keep cylinder temps low and prevent pre-ignition and detonation and keep motors intact so Mazda doesn't have to shell out for warranty motors.

I've datalogged factory PCM tunes on Mazdaspeed6's and 3's and it's not uncommon to see 9.5-9.8:1 at WOT in boost at torque peak.

remember AFR is a ratio: the higher the number the leaner you are, the lower the richer you are.

I would stay away from those things. How do you know that the chip is not messing with the reading of the DH? Without having a true wideband how could you ever know for sure?

RX-7 Chris wrote:I would stay away from those things. How do you know that the chip is not messing with the reading of the DH? Without having a true wideband how could you ever know for sure?

Thats true...i want to do a wideband when i do the downpipe, which will be very soon. Whats a good wideband that doesnt break the bank? AEM, Prosport...?

AEM UEGO WB02 is a good wideband, there is much debate about the accuracy of Bosch sensors but it's what I use and I like it. If you shop around you can find them for $220 shipped or less.

PLX Devices also makes a nice WB02 it's a little more pricey but worth it.

Stay away from ProSport WB02...

I was going to say, if it's fooling your ECU to think it's bringing in colder air and it's dumping more fuel, that would be richer, not leaner. And chicken is right, I know for rotaries at least, 12 is actually on the high side if anything, not super high though. I hover around 10 or 11 most of the time, getting high at 12 or 13. Mine still needs to be tuned though.

I got my wideband from Innovate Motorsports because it gives a bigger range than AEM, but it's quite pricy too...IIRC it's about $450 or so for the kit I have. I'm not sure if that would be necessary for a piston engine though, so if most people are running AEM with success I'd suggest that one.