Like mentioned before, there's no form of standalone or flash based EM on the market for the Speed6. Cobb is just about to release the flash based Accessport for the Speed3, but no word on if they'll definitely release the AP for the Speed6. It's listed on their site, but it's been pretty much a dead project on the Speed6 for over a year now.
As far as an intake goes, spend your money on something more worthwhile. With a CAI, you're looking at picking up an honest 2-4hp at peak (might make a little more in the upper RPMs after peak power has already dropped off), if that. Now as for the factory BPV... from the factory, it's a plastic POS, that has been known to leak boost. In the WRX/STI world, upgrading your BPV/BOV is typically a waste of time until you get to about the 400whp mark, but on a Speed6/3, it's recommended. When I still had a Speed6, I ran a BPV from a 1st Gen DSM, that I crushed with a vice, which worked great, and held an extra psi of boost or two in the upper RPMs.
The Standback EM system is a pretty nice piggyback, most definitely the best current option on the market. It can control the factory BCS, modify fuel trim via MAF/MAP sensor manipulation, and timing through manipulating the CAS. If I still had a Speed6, it's probably what I would have eventually would have switched over to from the DTEC FCBC.
With a full turboback, assuming you're going to run cat-less, you're going to experience frequent fuel cut in 3rd-6th gears. If you're going to run a full TBE, I would recommend picking up an EM system like the Standback to go with it, not only to tune your AFR's to make sure the car doesn't run lean, but also to help eliminate fuel cut, so your new found power will actually be usable in 3rd-6th gears. My recommendations for first mods, would be EM, TBE (actually you won't get much power from a cat-back, most of your power will be from the downpipe alone) and an upgraded BPV/BOV in recirc, only to prevent the stock BPV from leaking boost. If you need more power after that, we'll talk
Now as far as octane goes... 91 octane at altitude does not necessarily equal 93 at sea level. Yes octane is lowered at altitude, but it doesn't mean 91 has the same resistance to detonation as 93. At sea level, ambient air is approx 14.7psi or 1 bar. Up here, it's closer to 12psi. This means, specifically for NA cars, they're not seeing the same air pressures at the manifold as they would at sea level.... so aledgedly, you should have richer AFR's here (although most newer cars have MAF/MAP sensors that will attempt to correction fuel trims to compensate for the increase in altitude), and richer AFR's mean less chance of detonation... less chance of det, to some people mean they can run a lower octane gas without worrying about knock. To me, as long as it's not leaded (will destroy O2's), the higher the octane the better. The higher the octane, the leaner you can run the car without knocking, which means more boost, advancing timing a few degrees ect. Overall, I wish we had 93 up here
I could recommend a couple local shops to buy parts from, but I'll be completely honest with you, you'll probably find better deals from online vendors. PM me for info on local shops if you would like.
Lastly, if you're looking for higher octane gas, you're pretty much limited to Sunoco pumps, that carry 100/104 octane fuel. Here's a list of every Sunoco pump in the state:
http://www.sunocoinc.com/Site/Consumer/Rac...ns/Colorado.htmHappy modding