Considering re-joining the Mazda community...

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ecam8000
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Postby ecam8000 » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:14

roninsoldier83 wrote:If you wouldn't mind, please school me on the internal differences of the 1.6L motors/1.8L motors.... I know very little about the old Miata engines, any problem areas I should be looking for?

So, '90 1.6L is ok, just avoid 91-91.5's? Is it kind of like the old DSM motors where the 6-bolt motors ran great but 7-bolt's had crank walk issues/manufacturing design that is a known issue?

I would really appreciate any info you might be able to share :)


EDIT: this explains a lot:
http://www.solomiata.com/Mx5Engine.html

Hmmm, are the pulley keyway failures really that common on the 90-91's? I'm a bit more wary about the car posted above now...


These are durable engines. In Keith Tanner's books he states that some avoid the "small" nose engines, but in that writing states that his current 3 are all small nosed. I think it boils down to maint. That nose may be hurt or in great shape (crap game). If the belt has been changed and it has 50K or so until the next time (belt change) I'd flog it. If you learn that in a couple months/years repairs are needed to that crank.....

None of our engines are going to last long without oil! Without a dissasembly, who knows. How cars were treated is part of buying used (and not having a payment).

My 99 is one of the "crank thrust washer" problem cars to be avoided. It has over 100k and I've killed the clutch switch so I do not worry about it. If I have to find or build an engine one day, I will. Call that seller (if you are considering it) and ask about the maintenance. He is probably well aware of the crank issue and can tell you more.
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99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/

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roninsoldier83
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:14

ecam8000 wrote:These are durable engines. In Keith Tanner's books he states that some avoid the "small" nose engines, but in that writing states that his current 3 are all small nosed. I think it boils down to maint. That nose may be hurt or in great shape (crap game). If the belt has been changed and it has 50K or so until the next time (belt change) I'd flog it. If you learn that in a couple months/years repairs are needed to that crank.....

None of our engines are going to last long without oil! Without a dissasembly, who knows. How cars were treated is part of buying used (and not having a payment).

My 99 is one of the "crank thrust washer" problem cars to be avoided. It has over 100k and I've killed the clutch switch so I do not worry about it. If I have to find or build an engine one day, I will. Call that seller (if you are considering it) and ask about the maintenance. He is probably well aware of the crank issue and can tell you more.


Thanks for the insight. :)

There's another part of me that thinks "if I buy a small nose 1.6L and it breaks, that's a great excuse to upgrade to a 1.8L" haha.

I actually think I'm going to give the guy a call tonight, inquire a bit more about the vehicle and maybe setup a test drive if possible.
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jamiel
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Postby jamiel » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:14

roninsoldier83 wrote:'90 1.6L is ok, just avoid 91-91.5's?


My error, meant to type 90-91.5 (small nose cranks) But I agree with Ecam's point

ecam8000 wrote:If the belt has been changed and it has 50K or so until the next time (belt change) I'd flog it. If you learn that in a couple months/years repairs are needed to that crank.....


The 1.6 is the B6ZE, and the 1.8 is the BPZE (had this in my recently sold Protege LX) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_B_engine

The BPZE is VERY strong- strong block, forged crank, main bearing support plate. You can run a bunch of boost on stock internals with the BPZE

Also- iirc (someone will correct me if I'm wrong) As a practical matter, the 90-93's have viscous LSDs, and it's harder to find one that isn't shot. The 94-97's with LSDs were mechanical, and generally are healthy.

One day I'll get a Miata....

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ecam8000
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Postby ecam8000 » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:14

Pictures in that ad have to be from Texas, or else Spring has come early to Colo Springs! Nice house either way.
Eric

99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/



2 Fords 29 & 2000.



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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:14

I would recommend a Miata. I know Matt (alpha) here on the forums is selling a MINT 1990 Miata for a good price, even comes with a hard top. I was considering it for a DD but I'm just too tall. But it's a very very well maintained car.

I love rotaries but I don't think you'll find anything in your price range. Your money will go further in a Miata. And from what I've gathered over the years, the BP series motors are very stout. Save for the short nose crank bolt issues in the 1990 and 1991.5 1.6L Miatas, they really have no issues.

They were also a homologation motor for Mazda's rally efforts in the late 80's and early 90's for the 323 GTX series of cars, so they were essentially detuned rally motors. Mazda literally used the same bottom end (block, crank, rods, pistons, bearings, etc) from the production cars as the rally race cars. Very stout motors and they are begging for boost.
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:I would recommend a Miata. I know Matt (alpha) here on the forums is selling a MINT 1990 Miata for a good price, even comes with a hard top. I was considering it for a DD but I'm just too tall. But it's a very very well maintained car.

I love rotaries but I don't think you'll find anything in your price range. Your money will go further in a Miata. And from what I've gathered over the years, the BP series motors are very stout. Save for the short nose crank bolt issues in the 1990 and 1991.5 1.6L Miatas, they really have no issues.

They were also a homologation motor for Mazda's rally efforts in the late 80's and early 90's for the 323 GTX series of cars, so they were essentially detuned rally motors. Mazda literally used the same bottom end (block, crank, rods, pistons, bearings, etc) from the production cars as the rally race cars. Very stout motors and they are begging for boost.


I'm afraid I don't know this Matt/Alpha you speak of.... is he still selling his Miata? If so, any idea what he's asking for it? Feel free to shoot me a PM :D

Yeah, I'm trying to keep costs down to the point, where I wouldn't care too much about it if it broke... and would be fairly inexpensive to fix when I do break something.

Thanks for the info about the motors, good to know to say the least!
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:14

Talked to the guy in the link.... he lowered the price to $2200! Honestly, with the mods list on that car, if I don't care for the car, I could probably part the thing out, sell the car and make a decent little profit haha.

So, I'm making a trip down to the Springs tonight to take a peek at the car, see how she runs, and we'll see what happens. :)
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:14

cool, hope it works out for you.
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ecam8000
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Postby ecam8000 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:14

If you don't get it, I just might at that price. That Miata for $1200 was already gone.:(
Eric

99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/



2 Fords 29 & 2000.



99 BMW 328i



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roninsoldier83
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:14

ecam8000 wrote:If you don't get it, I just might at that price. That Miata for $1200 was already gone.:(


LOL, yeah at that price, it's getting hard to walk away from, especially knowing that if I really wanted I could swap stock parts back on (he has most of them allegedly), sell the aftermarket parts, sell the car and just make a profit.

Although there are a couple things about the car he didn't mention in the ad; the previous owner who was an avid autoX-er, removed the AC & power steering. I think he said the brackets are still there, but the parts are removed. He said something about some mod that made the steering lighter... not sure what he was talking about.

Reliability wise, the guy claims it has been rock solid, just needs new rear brakes & tires, and the guy thinks that if I plan on racing it, I'll likely need to replace the clutch within a year as the throw-out bearing is making some noise. We'll see. Either way, it's a pretty decent price to say the least.
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erod550
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Postby erod550 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:14

Man that thing is a steal for $2200 imo. I got mine for $1950 with almost 50k more miles and none of the extras that one comes with. I've thought about removing my AC, especially since it doesn't work, but I like having power steering. My rack is leaking though so I may end up replacing that at some point. But removing AC and PS is a pretty common mod on these cars. The brackets are easy to find too if you decide you want to put them back on and the car doesn't have them. Then you just need one of the longer belts and a tensioner and you can have it all back, though I don't know how much it will cost to refill the AC and possibly have to convert to R134.
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:14

erod550 wrote:Man that thing is a steal for $2200 imo. I got mine for $1950 with almost 50k more miles and none of the extras that one comes with. I've thought about removing my AC, especially since it doesn't work, but I like having power steering. My rack is leaking though so I may end up replacing that at some point. But removing AC and PS is a pretty common mod on these cars. The brackets are easy to find too if you decide you want to put them back on and the car doesn't have them. Then you just need one of the longer belts and a tensioner and you can have it all back, though I don't know how much it will cost to refill the AC and possibly have to convert to R134.


My thoughts exactly sir :)

Yeah, I was just doing some searching over on the Miata boards, and am shocked to see how common it is for people to de-power their steering. I guess if I ever want it back, it doesn't appear to be too difficult. The lack of AC doesn't bother me at all though... the Bimmer's climate control works fine and it will still be performing daily driver duties haha!

As far as the PS goes, I'll probably take it to an autoX or 2, see how it feels, and if I feel like I'm being overworked, I'll toss it back in. However, I'm about 6'2" 215 lbs and bench around 290 lbs at the moment, so I doubt I'll have too much trouble... I guess we'll see. :)
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erod550
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Postby erod550 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:14

Have you sat in a Miata to see if you fit with the top up? I'm 6'0" 230lbs and I don't have a whole lot of head clearance.
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:14

erod550 wrote:Have you sat in a Miata to see if you fit with the top up? I'm 6'0" 230lbs and I don't have a whole lot of head clearance.


LOL, yeah I've sat in quite a few in the past (used to work for a Mazda dealership years ago), and while it's tight, I fit alright. :)

Not "spacious" to say the least, but I manage to shoehorn myself in and still see with the top up :D
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ecam8000
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Postby ecam8000 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:14

roninsoldier83 wrote:My thoughts exactly sir :)

I'm about 6'2" 215 lbs and bench around 290 lbs at the moment, so I doubt I'll have too much trouble... I guess we'll see. :)


I know a bunch go manual for autocross. I'm about 5' 14" and about 225 lbs. I fit (or wear) the Miata. When we put up the top at the snowcone event, with the helmet on, I was hitting the roof. On the other hand, with the top down, there is plenty of head room!

And for the record, I've seen a bench that weighs 300 (couldn't budge it but I did see it)!
Eric

99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/



2 Fords 29 & 2000.



99 BMW 328i



THANKS! To all who serve.


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