my civic thread
Last night I pulled off the intake, alternator, transmission, engine mounts, misc hoses and wiring and such. This morning, I removed the cylinder head and got a good look at the pistons, cylinders, valves, and crankshaft. Galling is evident on the connecting rod journal, an so I do expect to need another crankshaft.
On the engine still in service in the car (220K), did a compression test and saw 108 115 105 110 (engine warm, WOT during test). Pulled valve cover, adjusted intake and exhaust valve lash clearances back to OEM spec with wrench, screwdriver, feeler gauges (they were too tight). Repeated compression test, saw 128 122 125 120. OEM tolerances are 135-185 PSI, 28 PSI max deviation between cylinders, so it's still low, but at least better..
Checked spark gap, closer to 0.9mm (0.035) than the 1.1mm (0.043) OEM spec. I guess that harbor freight 'coin' gapper I used when I bought the plugs was imprecise. Readjusted gaps using two stacked feeler gauges totaling to 1.1mm thick.
Took it for a drive, noticed better low-RPM power, and valve 'chatter' sound eliminated when opening throttle while in higher gears at lower RPMs (e.g.: 1500-2000).
Checked spark gap, closer to 0.9mm (0.035) than the 1.1mm (0.043) OEM spec. I guess that harbor freight 'coin' gapper I used when I bought the plugs was imprecise. Readjusted gaps using two stacked feeler gauges totaling to 1.1mm thick.
Took it for a drive, noticed better low-RPM power, and valve 'chatter' sound eliminated when opening throttle while in higher gears at lower RPMs (e.g.: 1500-2000).
sometimes doing it by the book bites you in the ###.
Lies. (But an excellent way to tear a caliper boot!) So much for the honda field service manual, shoulda put it on the piston first, not the caliper.
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Another brake caliper rebuild kit should be in on Monday. In the meantime, spent Sunday wet sanding and polishing the headlights to remove built-up haze and pulled the passenger-side front fender, degreased, and used 'tail-strip' to remove paint down to primer.
Removed rear bumper cover, found some minor rust that will need grinding. Discovered prior heat damage from one of several past exhaust pipe issues (after 9.5 years, couldn't say which). Bottom of rear taillight assembly slightly melted, polystyrene rear impact pad half melted, part of cabin pressure vents melted.
Also tried patching crack in exhaust manifold with a metallic paste-type product. Don't expect much, but... when running the engine at idle to help it 'set,' noticed front wheel hub on side previously jacked up and wheel removed for brake work was spinning, even while stick shift was in neutral position. Stopped spinning with clutch pedal down. Any idea what could cause this? (The other wheel was planted on the ground and not moving, so this was unlimited slip diff, but I wouldn't have expected any output torque at all while in neutral.) Could easily stop wheelhub with hand while it was in motion, definitely not enough to move the vehicle were it on level ground without brakes, etc.
Removed rear bumper cover, found some minor rust that will need grinding. Discovered prior heat damage from one of several past exhaust pipe issues (after 9.5 years, couldn't say which). Bottom of rear taillight assembly slightly melted, polystyrene rear impact pad half melted, part of cabin pressure vents melted.
Also tried patching crack in exhaust manifold with a metallic paste-type product. Don't expect much, but... when running the engine at idle to help it 'set,' noticed front wheel hub on side previously jacked up and wheel removed for brake work was spinning, even while stick shift was in neutral position. Stopped spinning with clutch pedal down. Any idea what could cause this? (The other wheel was planted on the ground and not moving, so this was unlimited slip diff, but I wouldn't have expected any output torque at all while in neutral.) Could easily stop wheelhub with hand while it was in motion, definitely not enough to move the vehicle were it on level ground without brakes, etc.
Successfully rebuilt the brake caliper, used cut aerosol can lid to help expand the boot enough to fit the piston onto it. Bled brakes.
Switched front wheels+tires to old snows that are better balanced than old summers I bought last month (have a set of new snow tires, not yet mounted).
Bled/flushed clutch fluid, refilled clutch reservoir 2-3 times, still dark, but not as nasty as before.
Am about to go out and replace the fuel filter, get misfires + CEL for random misfires at WOT high RPMs (have for quite some time).
Switched front wheels+tires to old snows that are better balanced than old summers I bought last month (have a set of new snow tires, not yet mounted).
Bled/flushed clutch fluid, refilled clutch reservoir 2-3 times, still dark, but not as nasty as before.
Am about to go out and replace the fuel filter, get misfires + CEL for random misfires at WOT high RPMs (have for quite some time).
Put in the new (wix brand) fuel filter, took out the factory OEM filter (which by my quick math has filtered about 7300 gallons over 13 years and 220K miles.) Fuel pump pressurized rail with no leaks, took it for a drive, took 2nd gear up to 6200 RPM briefly without any misfires or codes (which had been hitting around 5250 since at least 2009).
Ordered missing block parts (main bearing cap, oil pan) for the blown D16Y7 short block. Can't really do much else until I get some good measurement tools. Considering investing in a Starrett micrometer, bore gauge, etc.
Too lazy to sand bondo'd front fender tonight.
Ordered missing block parts (main bearing cap, oil pan) for the blown D16Y7 short block. Can't really do much else until I get some good measurement tools. Considering investing in a Starrett micrometer, bore gauge, etc.
Too lazy to sand bondo'd front fender tonight.
Oil Pan, oil takeup, and mean bearing cap/girdle for Honda D16Y7 engine arrived.
Because the girdle and block and milled together, I'll need to bolt the two together (probably with the oil pump housing and rear plate) and send them off for an align bore/hone. But that will wait for a number of other things, like determining what (if any) overbore for the cylinders, what if any deck milling, and then after all that a good hot tanking...
Wound up ordering a new Fowler 1.4"-6" bore dial gauge, waiting for it in the mail.
Did body rust mitigation work behind the rear bumper, on the A-pillar/roof weld.
Started degreasing and cleaning under (and the underside of) the hood, unbolting components to clean the body panels behind them. At this point, most of what's left is between the engine and the firewall in hard-to-reach spots like behind brake hardlines, etc. Depressurized and removed AC compressor, which needs a clutch rebuild/replace. Cleaned engine grounding wire contacts, cleaned distributor points and rotor with deoxit. Applied some primer. I had the resonator and intake pipe off to clean underneath, leaving only the air filter box before the throttle body. Wow, doing that makes the engine really loud and sonorous when on the gas! Halfway through all that:
Built a workbench.
Did some epoxying/painting/polishing on the plastic bumper covers. Wet-sanded and polished the headlight assemblies, which were getting too hazed. Installed the newly painted fender, seems an OK match on basecoat, though the clearcoat is a bit rough.
Because the girdle and block and milled together, I'll need to bolt the two together (probably with the oil pump housing and rear plate) and send them off for an align bore/hone. But that will wait for a number of other things, like determining what (if any) overbore for the cylinders, what if any deck milling, and then after all that a good hot tanking...
Wound up ordering a new Fowler 1.4"-6" bore dial gauge, waiting for it in the mail.
Did body rust mitigation work behind the rear bumper, on the A-pillar/roof weld.
Started degreasing and cleaning under (and the underside of) the hood, unbolting components to clean the body panels behind them. At this point, most of what's left is between the engine and the firewall in hard-to-reach spots like behind brake hardlines, etc. Depressurized and removed AC compressor, which needs a clutch rebuild/replace. Cleaned engine grounding wire contacts, cleaned distributor points and rotor with deoxit. Applied some primer. I had the resonator and intake pipe off to clean underneath, leaving only the air filter box before the throttle body. Wow, doing that makes the engine really loud and sonorous when on the gas! Halfway through all that:
Built a workbench.
Did some epoxying/painting/polishing on the plastic bumper covers. Wet-sanded and polished the headlight assemblies, which were getting too hazed. Installed the newly painted fender, seems an OK match on basecoat, though the clearcoat is a bit rough.
latest update
Not too much new. Found an interchangeable passenger side rocker panel guard off a civic EX coupe and installed that to replace my cracked one. Sanded and repainted the $40 steelies glossy black and had my new General Altimax Arctic 186/65R14 winter tires mounted, balanced, and installed. Am winter-ready on the civic, except the coolant's only good to -7F, need to fix that sooner than later.
Using the 2-3" Fowler micrometer and dial bore gauge, measured the cylinder sleeves on the D16Y7 long block I picked up last month. Honda stock cylinders are 75mm wide, and OEM specs allow for a +0.25 and +0.50mm overbore size. Unfortunately, cyls 2 and 3 on this block measured somewhat oval-shaped near the top, perpendicular to the crankshaft line, about +0.83mm and +0.63mm. To use this block, I'd have to either resleeve ($$$) or overbore to 76mm and use 76mm pistons.
From what I've been able to gather, it's doable inasmuch as the stock sleeves will anecdotally hold just find if I'm not planning on boosting or making big power (neither was the plan for this build), but there are a limited number of 76mm pistons available from the aftermarket. The two cast pistons I've found available for 76mm are Y.C.P brand P29 type (high dome, high compression) and Vitara style low-compression pistons.
Running some numbers on the 1mm overbore with Y.C.P P29 76mm pistons over at Honda D-Series Compression Calculator by ZealAutowerks ...
I can go to a thicker (D16A6, 0.048) head gasket, which drops static and effective compression to 11.9:1 and 10.86:1 respectively, or look for larger combustion chamber cylinder heads, like a D16A6. Because this particular block also would need a line hone, a replacement connecting rod, and some crankshaft work, I'm currently looking for another cheap short block...
appropos to nothing, D16Z6 intake manifold:
Using the 2-3" Fowler micrometer and dial bore gauge, measured the cylinder sleeves on the D16Y7 long block I picked up last month. Honda stock cylinders are 75mm wide, and OEM specs allow for a +0.25 and +0.50mm overbore size. Unfortunately, cyls 2 and 3 on this block measured somewhat oval-shaped near the top, perpendicular to the crankshaft line, about +0.83mm and +0.63mm. To use this block, I'd have to either resleeve ($$$) or overbore to 76mm and use 76mm pistons.
From what I've been able to gather, it's doable inasmuch as the stock sleeves will anecdotally hold just find if I'm not planning on boosting or making big power (neither was the plan for this build), but there are a limited number of 76mm pistons available from the aftermarket. The two cast pistons I've found available for 76mm are Y.C.P brand P29 type (high dome, high compression) and Vitara style low-compression pistons.
Running some numbers on the 1mm overbore with Y.C.P P29 76mm pistons over at Honda D-Series Compression Calculator by ZealAutowerks ...
D16 block, crank. 76mm bore, 90mm stroke, 212 deck height
D14A4 (D16Z6/Y7) head: 34.6cc combustion chamber
P29/PM7 piston (ZC) 7.2cc dome, 29mm comp height
D16 connecting rod, 137mm
D16Y8/Z6 head gasket thickness (0.037in)
0.000in head milling/block decking
6500 RPM redline
operating elevation: 5200ft
0 psi boost
results:
static comp: 12.28:1
effective comp: 11.24:1
displacement: 1633.13cc
rod/stroke ratio: 1.52:1
piston-to-deck height 0.039in
mean piston speed 1619 fps
max piston acceleration: 90886fps^2
I can go to a thicker (D16A6, 0.048) head gasket, which drops static and effective compression to 11.9:1 and 10.86:1 respectively, or look for larger combustion chamber cylinder heads, like a D16A6. Because this particular block also would need a line hone, a replacement connecting rod, and some crankshaft work, I'm currently looking for another cheap short block...
appropos to nothing, D16Z6 intake manifold:
Dumbizzle wrote:holly cow somebody taking care of a honda dang looks good I used to get hondas and crap like this would happen to me like it did last week
Dang, i recognize this... My front drivers side fell off doing bout 25. surprisingly there was no damage to the car.
~~~Think I can make it?~~~:eek:
I know I've been pretty quiet on this thread. In truth, the car has spent a lot of quality time parked, this winter. My roommate drove it for a few weeks when he had his Audi 2.8l V6 torn open for cylinder head work, but otherwise not too much going on here. I gave it an engine oil+filter change a week or two ago.
Today, I bought a 2nd Honda Civic from a friend of mine who lives a mile or two down the road. It's a 2000 Civic EX (J-vin) sedan, pretty much all stock and reasonably clean, with about 220K on the clock. I paid a reasonable amount because its auto tranny is mostly dysfunctional. Why would I want a sedan + auto tranny Civic? Well, the hope is to swap out the auto transmission with a pull and then flip the car. Failing that, I should be able to part it out and still make a little, and maybe even just keep its D16Y8 SOHC V-TEC engine (and other useful parts) for my '98 CX hatchback. Either way, I hope to have it gone well before the end of summer. No love for the 4-doors.
Today, I bought a 2nd Honda Civic from a friend of mine who lives a mile or two down the road. It's a 2000 Civic EX (J-vin) sedan, pretty much all stock and reasonably clean, with about 220K on the clock. I paid a reasonable amount because its auto tranny is mostly dysfunctional. Why would I want a sedan + auto tranny Civic? Well, the hope is to swap out the auto transmission with a pull and then flip the car. Failing that, I should be able to part it out and still make a little, and maybe even just keep its D16Y8 SOHC V-TEC engine (and other useful parts) for my '98 CX hatchback. Either way, I hope to have it gone well before the end of summer. No love for the 4-doors.
ugh, the website is going to do its thing where it takes a long update I've spent time writing, chews it up, and spits out an internal error. h8.
Here's the recap version, I guess.
A pic of the car and a visiting neighbor hoping for handouts:
I took it for a spin. Wouldn't seem to leave 1st gear when in D4/D3/2. R worked ok. When moving forward, seemed stuck in 1st gear, honda service manual suggests it's the 1st-gear one-way clutch that's probably at fault, though that may be whatever the actual preceding failure broke.
I did some prep-work for pulling the tranny this evening. Removed battery, air intake assemblies, front bumper cover, splash guard. I drained the ATF, emptied the engine coolant, and separated the AT wiring harness couplers. Next step will be to part the half-axles and then hopefully unmate the tranny from the engine and drop it under and out. Over and out as a plan B. All I could think as I worked on it was, "My GOD, this is so easy/accessible compared to the SAAB." ...
Honda D16-compatible ATs can run anywhere from $40 to $350 as salvage/used pulls, the latter often having 30-to-90 day warranties. I'll probably go that route. I'd install the Honda 5MT sitting on my front deck, but that's for my hatchback civic if ever needed. Plus, MTF conversion is a pain, and it won't really help the car's resale value.
Here's the recap version, I guess.
A pic of the car and a visiting neighbor hoping for handouts:
I took it for a spin. Wouldn't seem to leave 1st gear when in D4/D3/2. R worked ok. When moving forward, seemed stuck in 1st gear, honda service manual suggests it's the 1st-gear one-way clutch that's probably at fault, though that may be whatever the actual preceding failure broke.
I did some prep-work for pulling the tranny this evening. Removed battery, air intake assemblies, front bumper cover, splash guard. I drained the ATF, emptied the engine coolant, and separated the AT wiring harness couplers. Next step will be to part the half-axles and then hopefully unmate the tranny from the engine and drop it under and out. Over and out as a plan B. All I could think as I worked on it was, "My GOD, this is so easy/accessible compared to the SAAB." ...
Honda D16-compatible ATs can run anywhere from $40 to $350 as salvage/used pulls, the latter often having 30-to-90 day warranties. I'll probably go that route. I'd install the Honda 5MT sitting on my front deck, but that's for my hatchback civic if ever needed. Plus, MTF conversion is a pain, and it won't really help the car's resale value.
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