MS6 Drivetrain loss

[LaginWagon]

When I got my stock dyno I put down 230 hp to the wheels. So that would be a drivetrain loss of about 17%. If you take uncorrected numbers then the drivetrain and altitude powerloss is about 30% total. My uncorrected hp for my baseline was 192hp.

Wayyy to many variables from dyno to dyno (yes, we all know this). Also it depends on what correction factor the use. That depends on what dyno, ambient temperature at the time of the run, altitude etc.

Sea level correction factor is 1.28 for an AWD Mustang. Most others vary by make etc.

Regardless, 192hp is not bad for this altitude.

[chickenwafer]

so chickenwafer are you standback tune certified? also did you happen to turn onto buckley this afternoon in your 8?

Basically. I've tuned a bunch of different cars but I mainly tune rotaries but I have tuned piston engine vehicles as well.

Tuning the new DISI engines in the MS cars is a little tricky tho, as they like to throw rods at torque peak with too much timing/boost. Also the fuel control for them isn't the best with the current options on the market.

If you get the Cobb AccessPORT for the MS6 I have no problem making you a tune for that

Another reason why FWD (or RWD) cars with equal crank HP have an advantage in roll races. The AWD is great from a stop but it is a power leech from a roll.

Front-Wheel Drive also generally looses LESS than Rear-Wheel Drive with All-Wheel Drive obviously sapping up the most power. The reason being generally a FWD powertrain has a much shorter path to the drive wheels since there is no driveshaft.

But if the engine is mid-mounted like in a Lotus Elise, Ferrari F430, etc, there is no driveshaft and the power loose isn't as great.

It's why SRT-4's were factory (under) rated at 230-bhp but typically do 220-fwhp stock, whereas an Evo is factory rated at 280-bhp and they typically do 240's-awhp stock.

[Originalguy]

If you get the Cobb AccessPORT for the MS6 I have no problem making you a tune for that

what about the Standback II do you have experience with that platform?

[chickenwafer]

The CPE Standback? I have used the software but CPE is hardly mainstream so I haven't actually tuned a running engine with it.

You can PM if you have any other questions to end the threadjack LOL

[Originalguy]

Haha okay

[erod550]

When I got my stock dyno I put down 230 hp to the wheels. So that would be a drivetrain loss of about 17%. If you take uncorrected numbers then the drivetrain and altitude powerloss is about 30% total. My uncorrected hp for my baseline was 192hp.

Keep in mind that correction factors don't take into account whether you are N/A or boosted, so corrected numbers are going to be inflated on a turbo car as you don't lose as much power at altitude as an N/A car. Uncorrected is the only number you can really go by, and even then, like chickenwafer said there are way too many variables from one dyno to the next to try to use those numbers to measure drivetrain loss. You could have two different dynos that give two very different hp numbers. The point is to use the same dyno for your baseline and your modded dyno so you know approximately how much you are gaining from your mods.

I used the dyno at MAC for my baseline and put down 199whp uncorrected. If you used that dyno I would say the numbers are about what I'd expect. The Speed6 is rated 7hp higher, but loses more through the drivetrain. If you didn't dyno at MAC then we can't really compare.

[Regulator]

i agree. but then when it snows awd is worth the power loss. It would be a dream come true for someone to invent an awd system with similar powerloss as the fwd or rwd systems

If you pull the parking brake up one notch the ms6 turns to fwd for some reason. I would imagine it would be hell on the drivetrain though:o

If you get the Cobb AccessPORT for the MS6 I have no problem making you a tune for that

Have you found the dyno meter that comes with the AP to be accurate?

[bobopud]

Have you found the dyno meter that comes with the AP to be accurate?

Not a chance. I've had that thing tell me I have anywhere from 250hp to 425hp. So, I wouldn't trust the numbers from the AP.

[LaginWagon]

Not a chance. I've had that thing tell me I have anywhere from 250hp to 425hp. So, I wouldn't trust the numbers from the AP.

LMFAO! 425hp it is ;p

[Originalguy]

If you pull the parking brake up one notch the ms6 turns to fwd for some reason. I would imagine it would be hell on the drivetrain though:o

I've heard that and tried that but I didn't feel a difference there is a discussion on another forum somewhere

[Regulator]

Not a chance. I've had that thing tell me I have anywhere from 250hp to 425hp. So, I wouldn't trust the numbers from the AP.

LOL good to know, I was starting to think I had some sort of factory freak sitting in my driveway!

[LaginWagon]

LOL good to know, I was starting to think I had some sort of factory freak sitting in my driveway!

No, sitting in the car ;p

Sorry, had to...

[chickenwafer]

Have you found the dyno meter that comes with the AP to be accurate?

With the latest firmware update it has gotten better but that's like saying the terd smells less.

I've gotten some pretty variable readings from it, as high as 428rwhp and 400 ft-lbs of tq to 300-rwhp and 260 ft-lbs of torque. It really depends on what gear you do it in.

It calculates horsepower based off rpm and vehicle speed, basically how fast you are accelerating. You also enter the weight of vehicle in the device which if not entered properly can obviously skew your numbers.

The only good "Performance Meter" function off the AP is the 1/4 mile and 0-60mph tests. The 0-60mph obviously reads off your speedometer so it's pretty accurate so long as your factory speedo is reading correctly.

The 1/4 mile simulator goes off your factory odometer so again it is pretty accurate. The instant and average MPG is also very accurate I have found and works well.