Anyone had this problem?

[zoomzoom6]

I put my HIDs in today. They're a McCulloch 8000K kit. I had to hardwire a couple things and modify a bit seeing as to the adapters didn't fit my stock harnesses. But that aside, everytime I go to turn them on either one comes on or none at all. If I let the car sit for a minute or two and go to turn the headlights back on both fire up no problem. I know all the connections are good, I think it's just drawing too much juice from my stock battery at initial start-up of the HIDs, seeing as to it takes a lot to get them going but then drops off. I've done a lot of driving over the past two years and a lot of starting of the engine. I think the battery is just not holding what it once did. Did anybody else have or had this problem?

[firestoned]

The ballasts need to be replaced.

I had a set on my 06 Mazda 6, for a year they worked great, then the same thing happend, I would turn them on, and it was hit or miss if the left light would turn on, called company, they replaced the ballast, and it worked fine after that

[memphis]

Are these new?? Just like Eric said,, its your ballast thats not working.. It could be a loose connection but I doubt that.. Im sure its the ballast itself. I have no clue what kind of warranty McCulloch has but I have the Apexcone and they are lifetime warranty and Ive had to replace my ballast 3times now..

[zoomzoom6]

I've fixed the problem. The ballasts were brand new so it wasn't a ballast issue. Changed the battery out from the stock one to an Interstate one that has more cold cranking amps. They work without a hitch when I flip the lights on right after I start the car. I had a feeling they were pulling too many amps. That must have been the problem. Thanks for the input guys. Now I just have to get around to doing the anti-glare mod. Other than that, they light the road up like a christmas tree.

[tsx_guy]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ZoomZoom6 @ Aug 19 2008, 11:22 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=60676]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>

I've fixed the problem. The ballasts were brand new so it wasn't a ballast issue. Changed the battery out from the stock one to an Interstate one that has more cold cranking amps. They work without a hitch when I flip the lights on right after I start the car. I had a feeling they were pulling too many amps. That must have been the problem. Thanks for the input guys. Now I just have to get around to doing the anti-glare mod. Other than that, they light the road up like a christmas tree.[/b]

i was under the impression the HID's pulled less from the battery than the oem lights did? what is only after they were lit?
Glad you were able to get this fixed.

[memphis]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (6i_guy @ Aug 20 2008, 09:05 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=60746]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>

i was under the impression the HID's pulled less from the battery than the oem lights did? what is only after they were lit?
Glad you were able to get this fixed.[/b]

thats cause your right.. HIDs draw less current then your standard 55watt halogen bulb.. so really, I find it hard to believe its cause your battery was bad..Theres gotta be some other reason why its doing what its doing, and why its working right now when it wasnt working before is kinda strange..

[firestoned]

standard halogens run at a constant 15 amps....

hid's need 20 amps to start up, and then use 4 amps while running.

I was going to post the same thing too, Memphis, but figured its working for the time, but I believe that a larger battery with more CCA is only masking the problem....

Something is definitely wrong with the charge in the ballasts... Any car battery that cant handle 20 amps to turn the headlights on wouldnt even be able to start the car...

[RX-7 Chris]

That's true. I would also think there is something else going on.

Edit: Try testing the voltage to the lights.

[goldrocket]

I would highly recommend getting your charging system tested. Batteries do fail. There are many reasons, including age, damaged plates, broken internal connections, and alternators not charging at the correct amperage. One other little known fact about batteries...when one is drained to the point of needing a jump start, for whatever reasone(headlights or dome light left on), that battery will never be back to full capacity ever again. The exception to that rule is a deep cycle battery. hence the name. Batteries charge and discharge in cycles, a deep cycle is when it is totally dead. That's why they put deep cycle batteries in boats and RVs, because they are vehicles that typically get stroed for long periods of time. When it's time to use it again, charge the battery and go. The draw back to deep cycle batteries is the high internal resistance and slower rate of voltage discharge. In the large majority of uses this isn't even a draw back. But for something like a high powered audio system It can make amplifiers run hottter and affect transient response. In the case of your ballasts needing a large jolt of energy to fire up, and old battery can be the root cause, but I would still get that alternator tested to make sure it's charging properly. All it takes if a few minutes at the autoparts store. They can bring a load tester out to your car and test it. It's free and it will give you peace of mind. If you are looking for a durable, high powered, small in size and weight a, I can't possibly recommend enough the Kinetik brand. For over ten years all I ever used were Optima red tops. Except in my diesel truck, they were actually deep cycles. THey are great batteries, but the Kinetik is smaller, lighter and holds a hell of a lot more power per pound than any other battery I've ever used. I built a couple of manufacturer demo cars a few years ago and we used multiple wheel chair batteries because of the extremely low internal resistance. The kinetik batteries haev even lower resistance. I have two in my RX-7, a 1500 amp unit under the hood and a 900 amp inside the car for the stereo, with a 1 farad cap and a 200 amp alternator. I have xenon headlights, an MSD ignition(15-20 amps at high RPM), a Holley red fuel pump(high current draw there too), and a 750 watt sound system(easily up to 60 amp current draw). Even at night with the heater going and winshield wipers, my headlights don't dim when the stereo is rolling at high volume. In fact it rarely gets below 13 volts. The key to a charging system is the fact that when your car is running, it draws the electrical power from the alternator, batteries are merely storage devices. Yes, your electrical system will draw back up power form the, but the bulk of the electrical load comes off the alternator. So the purpose of this mini thread jack was to make sure you get that alternator tested. batteries dying are usually a symptom of a problem, unless you are way past the warranty date on the battery.