Anyone here has Hypertech? I know, I know AP is better... What are your thoughts? I'm not looking to go nuts with the AP then go get a tune so Hypertech seems to be the better/more affordable/reliable solution.
Does anyone know if Hypertech will get rid of my boost cut?
Hypertech anyone?
- I`m Batman
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It will eliminate boost cut, from what I've read. But I think someone had trouble with it at high altitude. Someone on MSF.org.
Stealth01
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts
- reconbygod12
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personally i would go with the ap, because the maps are pretty solid and you can alternate right away from the tune back to stock....also if you really wanted to you can data log with your ap and send it into cobb and they will make you a map as welll for the parts you have and from results of data logging
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- I`m Batman
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- I`m Batman
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So I got a reply from Hypertech in case anyone is interested...
"The tuning in the Max Energy Sport programmer is optimized for most bolt-on modifications. There are options in the programmer for several popular aftermarket air intakes, including your Cobb intake. By selecting the proper intake option in the programmer, the mass air calculations will be corrected. The ECU will be able to account for the additional airflow provided by all your mods, and will adjust the spark and fueling appropriately for the best, safe power we have already tuned for....
"The tuning in the Max Energy Sport programmer is optimized for most bolt-on modifications. There are options in the programmer for several popular aftermarket air intakes, including your Cobb intake. By selecting the proper intake option in the programmer, the mass air calculations will be corrected. The ECU will be able to account for the additional airflow provided by all your mods, and will adjust the spark and fueling appropriately for the best, safe power we have already tuned for....

- I`m Batman
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...cont
" We tune (raise) the boost and load cut limits to work with the intake and exhaust mods, but leave them in place to protect the engine from mechanical failure. There is a 0-60 throttle restriction removal option in the programmer, which removes the boost cut in 1st and 2nd gears.
We actually pushed our test car to see what the limitations were of the factory turbo. On a stock car, we measured a peak of about 14.5psi with the stock tune. The Hypertech tune peaks at 17.5psi, measured in 4th gear on our AWD Superflow dyno. The final boost curve of the Hypertech tune follows a shape similar to the factory boost curve which focuses on maintaining turbocharger efficiency, rather than a steady boost level. There is only slightly more power gained by holding boost steady, and testing showed much less repeatable, dependable power. This was a result of pushing the turbocharger past its optimal efficiency range. 19 psi is ok for that turbo at low RPM's, but they can't hold that kind of boost pressure at the upper RPM range. With our boost curve, the turbocharger still has room to provide optimal boost without working past its efficiency range. See attached charts for more detailed info."


" We tune (raise) the boost and load cut limits to work with the intake and exhaust mods, but leave them in place to protect the engine from mechanical failure. There is a 0-60 throttle restriction removal option in the programmer, which removes the boost cut in 1st and 2nd gears.
We actually pushed our test car to see what the limitations were of the factory turbo. On a stock car, we measured a peak of about 14.5psi with the stock tune. The Hypertech tune peaks at 17.5psi, measured in 4th gear on our AWD Superflow dyno. The final boost curve of the Hypertech tune follows a shape similar to the factory boost curve which focuses on maintaining turbocharger efficiency, rather than a steady boost level. There is only slightly more power gained by holding boost steady, and testing showed much less repeatable, dependable power. This was a result of pushing the turbocharger past its optimal efficiency range. 19 psi is ok for that turbo at low RPM's, but they can't hold that kind of boost pressure at the upper RPM range. With our boost curve, the turbocharger still has room to provide optimal boost without working past its efficiency range. See attached charts for more detailed info."



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slashsnake
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reconbygod12 wrote:personally i would go with the ap, because the maps are pretty solid and you can alternate right away from the tune back to stock....also if you really wanted to you can data log with your ap and send it into cobb and they will make you a map as welll for the parts you have and from results of data logging
from what I have read, unless you get a pro-tune, then the OTS Cobb maps are sketchy and known for lots of issues. Hypertech seems to have a solid history though, and so far a near-spotless track record of MS3 users on other forums.
mOOsE wrote:from what I have read, unless you get a pro-tune, then the OTS Cobb maps are sketchy and known for lots of issues. Hypertech seems to have a solid history though, and so far a near-spotless track record of MS3 users on other forums.
From what I've seen, this is true. People HAVE blown motors with the OTS Cobb maps, but as far as I've seen, never with a Hypertech and never with a professional tune.
Stealth01
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts
People have blown motors with professional tunes. And there probably haven't been any blown motors with the Hypertech because there are so few of them out there. Give it time.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way
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1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors
Former Rides:
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erod550 wrote:People have blown motors with professional tunes. And there probably haven't been any blown motors with the Hypertech because there are so few of them out there. Give it time.
That's the theory, that it's because there aren't many out there. We'll see.
As far as professional tunes, in the 60 I have on a spreadsheet, none have pro tunes, or at least the owner/driver didn't list it if they did. But "Pro Tune" is probably a relative term, with some being better than others, so it's kind of a moot point.
Stealth01
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts
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dsm_luck22
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I have the Hypertech tune. It was only running 12-14 PSI at WOT. Stock was 11-13. I run an MBC with the tune and it runs great and pulls hard. I have the MBC set to 16psi but it spikes at 18 and settles to 14 by 6000 rpms. It seems to run rich though. My DH records A/F ratios in the 9.9 range at WOT, but then I am also running a small meth nozzle as well (175 ml/min).
I ran a 14.2 at 102 with an MBC @18 psi, CAI, motor mount, and hankook V12's (MS3). The tune feels faster and smoother than that setup.
I am going to replace my smoking K04 with a BNR stage 3, HTP inlet, and ptp pump internals. My plan is to run 16-??psi (depending on how the DH logs look) on the hypertech tune with the bigger turbo and hopefully alleviate some of the issues of running a maxed out K04. Im not looking for max horsepower just a fun DD.
I ran a 14.2 at 102 with an MBC @18 psi, CAI, motor mount, and hankook V12's (MS3). The tune feels faster and smoother than that setup.
I am going to replace my smoking K04 with a BNR stage 3, HTP inlet, and ptp pump internals. My plan is to run 16-??psi (depending on how the DH logs look) on the hypertech tune with the bigger turbo and hopefully alleviate some of the issues of running a maxed out K04. Im not looking for max horsepower just a fun DD.
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dsm_luck22
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I was under the impression that at our altitude a turbocharger is running harder to make the same PSI due to the drop in atmospheric pressure. 14.7 psi at sea level = 1atm, but at 6000 ft its something like 12.5 psi. Wouldn't the charger have to work harder to keep 18 PSI here rather than sea level? If not then I am understanding it wrong. I know that 18-19 PSI at sea level is just about the max for the K04 before it becomes a flame thrower. Wouldn't that make the K04 max at 16-17 PSI here? Would like to know.
In the end though I really like the hypertech tune. You just have to regulate boost with an MBC. I will say though that in the past few weeks I have had 3 instances of large knock at intermittent throttle in 4th gear for just a split second. Like 3.0 to 5.0. Not on boost. I NEVER knock when on boost or WOT on the tune though. I re-flashed the ECU from the cp-e nano tune to the HKS tune based off of some dynos I saw (running a Injen CAI chopped into an SRI). I highly doubt the tune has anything to do with the low load knock.
In the end though I really like the hypertech tune. You just have to regulate boost with an MBC. I will say though that in the past few weeks I have had 3 instances of large knock at intermittent throttle in 4th gear for just a split second. Like 3.0 to 5.0. Not on boost. I NEVER knock when on boost or WOT on the tune though. I re-flashed the ECU from the cp-e nano tune to the HKS tune based off of some dynos I saw (running a Injen CAI chopped into an SRI). I highly doubt the tune has anything to do with the low load knock.
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dsm_luck22
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I logged a few 4th gear pulls after I upped the boost to see how the hypertech would handle it. Did get some small .3-.4 knock on the second run but the AFR looked good. The tune holds boost decently past 5000 rpm. Let off on the second run at 5800 rpms. Held 15.3 psi there and 9.8 afr. Much better than stock because it holds the throttle open at the end. 1st run does not have rpm.


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